A Glossy Japanese Speakeasy

SAKURA
Location: undisclosed
Contact info: undisclosed
Hours: Tues-Thurs & Sun: 5pm-10pm; Fri & Sat: 5pm-midnight
Prices: $9-$13
What you need to know: Clandestine and glossy location offers exemplary cocktails

The speakeasy was not an invention so much as it was a product of necessity. Prohibition loomed large for thirteen long and painful years here in America. Thus, an Asian themed speakeasy is, in a way, culturally anachronistic. Heck, today the speakeasy itself is anachronistic. Nonetheless, the newly opened Sakura, with its svelte execution of a hidden Japanese bar, is anything but dated or stodgy.

Perhaps the most alluring element of a first visit to Sakura is the clandestine access to its location. Tucked behind a new ramen house, a Sakura visit requires one to enter the restaurant and navigate to its rear, approach the “bouncer” sitting at the table with a vase of Japanese cherry blossoms (i.e., sakura flowers), and give her a knowing nod. It’s almost everything short of a secret password and handshake.
The back wall opens as if by magic, and you are led into an intimate setting, with seating for no more than twenty, appointed with a modern and fresh decor, including a granite bar lined with high-backed, white leather chairs. The atmosphere is serene and chic. This is not your grandfather’s speakeasy. These drinks are not your grandfather’s drinks.
Peruse the white menu—that appears to have been written with geisha penmanship—while you refresh yourself with the presented Oshibori, or, hot towel, and a sweet and refreshing welcome cocktail of Pineapple Effervescent (pineapple rum, lime and simple syrup, topped with soda).

Now that you are welcomed and refreshed, turn to Sakura’s wide selection of drinks. Base liquors vary from Kikka Coffey Grain Whisky, to cherry blossom infused Bombay Sapphire, to Mugi Shochu, to Larceny Bourbon, to Courvoisier cognac. Pick your preferred base, or better still, chat with head barkeep, Dylan Currier. His wealth of knowledge will deftly guide.
Love You Long Time ($11), with its Japanese whisky base, initially presented itself subtly whilst smiling back at you via its spray tan of Old Fashioned bitters. A light drink with a long finish, the Love You is apropos for the season. With its Zuzu sour blend and lemon and honey, with egg white frothing upon the surface, the drink delivers most when the bitters are homogeneously incorporated so as to impress with each sip.
A namesake drink, the Sakura Martini ($9), infuses aromatic gin with additional notes of cherry blossoms, presenting a nose of jolly rancher watermelon (in a good way) stemming from the POM juice. The flavor of the Sakura is concocted in such a way so as to achieve an entirely new and harmonious, almost monolithic and indescribable, flavor, yet finishes with a captivating grace note, compliments of the Indian peppercorn syrup. 

The incorporation of sherry into a cocktail is most assuredly a sign that the bartender is classy and skilled. The Spanish fortified wine is nearly the epitome of esotericism. The Tales of Harmony ($13) recall memories of mahogany paneling and leather-bound books. Smokey sherry is bolstered by the backbone of the Hibiki Harmony whisky.
If you wish to feel even more scofflaw, opt for the 5 Spice Sazerac ($11)—a tripartite drink with influences from Prohibition, New Orleans and Parisian absinthe bars. Where most mixologists will dump the liquor after an absinthe rinse, Currier reserves a quarter measure of the fabled elixir—and its powerful anise influence on the nose and palate are impossible to miss.

Genuine scofflaw, or simply playing one on the weekends, you will feel the sense of dubiously illicit adventure intrinsic in all well executed speakeasies. To this, Sakura’s glossy theme from the Orient adds an alluring shine.

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