OnTheTable: When Food Bridges Cultures


Sami Tamimi grew up in Jerusalem’s Muslim east side, and Yotam Ottolenghi in Jerusalem’s Jewish west side. They were born and raised in the same city, yet, being cultures apart, they never knew each other. Their parallel histories eventually brought them from Jerusalem to London where they met for the first time via their shared love for food.

In their 2012 collaborative work, “Jerusalem, a Cookbook,” winner of the 2013 James Beard Award for Best International Cookbook, the two authors state that Jerusalem’s multiple food cultures are “mashed and fused together in a way that is impossible to unravel.” Food is integral to these cultures, many of whom, sadly, are also enmeshed in political discord.

Yet, in spite of the near indelible conflict inherent when diverse cultures claim identical geographic birthrights, Ottolenghi and Tamimi know that it is food that can bridge otherwise insurmountable divides. It is food that “seems to be the only unifying force in this highly fractured place,” they write. It is food that “seems to break down those boundaries.” It is a Muslim and a Jew, brought together by food, who proclaim their shared dream that food “will eventually bring Jerusalemites together, if nothing else will.”

Adapted from the pages of “Jerusalem, a Cookbook,” On The Table brings you an adventurous piece of vegetable-centric, Middle Eastern fare with flavors so vivid and pronounced that it is sure to delight vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

Ingredients 

Butternut squash, 2½ lbs., chopped into 2”x¾” pieces
Red onion, 2, sliced into wedges ¾” wide
Olive oil, 4 Tbsp + 2 tsp
Tahini paste, 3½ Tbsp
Lemon juice, 1½ Tbsp
Garlic, 2 cloves crushed
Water, as needed
Pine nuts, 50 grams
Za’atar (or substitution; see below), 1 Tbsp
Italian parsley, to taste
Salt & pepper

Directions

Once the squash and onions have been prepared, in a large bowl toss them with four tablespoons of oil, one teaspoon of salt and a dusting of black pepper. Spread these on a baking sheet and place on the topmost rack of a 475F oven. (Because heat rises, placing items on the highest rack position will locate the food where the heat is most concentrated. This works especially well for pizza.) After thirty minutes check regularly on the roasting’s progress. (Cutting the onions into substantive wedges will minimize charing. Nonetheless, the onions may need to be removed prior to the squash.) Once the vegetables are golden and tender, remove from the oven and set aside.

Meanwhile, whisk together the tahini, lemon juice and garlic. Continue whisking while adding water in tablespoon increments until a pourable consistency (similar to warm honey) is achieved.

In a small pan over medium heat add two teaspoons of oil and ¾ teaspoon of salt. In this pan, sauté the pine nuts until golden brown, continuously agitating them so as not the burn. Remove from pan and set aside.

To make a za’atar substitute: Combine fresh oregano, ground cumin, sesame seeds, lemon zest, black pepper (equal parts, one teaspoon each).

To serve: Top the roasted vegetables with tahini sauce, sautéed pine nuts and za’atar (or substitute).

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