OnTheTable: 503W’s Culinary Imagineering Captures the Imagination

503W
503 W Colorado Ave.
www.503w.co
Hours: Mon-Thurs: 11am-Midnight; Fri: 11am-2am; Sat: 9am-2am; Sun: 9am-10pm
Drink Prices: $7-$14 (and up)
Food Prices: $4-$18
What you need to know: Inventive food and superbly crafted cocktails, not to mention a robust beer selection, eclipses inattentive service

While mediocre service can be eclipsed by exceptional food, even fantastic service can never overcome disappointing cuisine. Thankfully, 503W is not plagued by disappointing cuisine—far from it. Sadly, it is also not plagued by attentive service.

Nonetheless, what 503W poignantly lacks in service (waitstaff: please inform patrons when additional wasabi dressing commands an extra fee) it redeems by shocking diners with adventurous fare so boisterously brimming with freshly executed, culinary imagination, that with each energetic bite and intoxicating sip any lingering, service-induced resentment fades to distant memory.

The menu offering of Korean tacos ($9) conjures images of Los Angeles food trucks. Steamed bao buns, bulgogi, korean slaw salad, and green onions—the only stereotypical item missing is a fresh sunburn and a side of cold-pressed kale juice. Yet what arrived at table was so far removed from the simplicity of SoCal street food it appeared more comfortable in a linen-tablecloth establishment accentuated by low lighting. A stunning presentation with tasting notes to match. With sticky buns reminiscent of dim sum, bulgogi authentically marinaded with heat and sweet, the contrasting texture and temperature provided by the slaw, the dipping sauce and its depth of flavor (à la fish sauce) aesthetically flanking the trio of tacos, the entirety of the dish was nothing short of compelling.

No less compelling, if not as boldly imaginative, was the “Food Truck” satay ($10). Known as the national dish of Indonesia, satay is traditionally composed of seasoned, grill and skewered meats draped in sauce. 503W’s satay was true to form. Grilled and skewered chicken was, delightfully, not overcooked, entertaining with numerous yet complimentary spices (including lemon and pepper) that still allowed through the flavor of the grill. Rich and unctuous was the coconut curry, which played equally well with both chicken and rice, the latter of which could not be ignored for its perfect preparation (it’s the small things that propel cuisine from good to great).

Such Epicurean-esque experiences nearly had us forgetting that 503W came recommend for their cocktails—the impetus for our Monday afternoon visit. The creative imagineering evident in 503W’s “Street Food” boldly reasserts itself behind the bar.

The Black Walnut Old Fashioned ($10), buoying a large sphere of ice, is a sophisticated riff on the classic, with the walnut’s fatty acids deepening the potency of the bourbon. (Pair it with the Pub Chips ($4) in wasabi ranch dressing for a heightened experience of each.)

Not to be outdone was the interactive, beer cocktail, Delvin with Melvin ($8). A collins glass with iced citrus, Velvet Falernum, and gin is served alongside a can of Melvin’s IPA. The hops plays well with botanicals of the gin and Falernum. Sip, refill, repeat. Fun.

More than an attention grabbing name, the Smoked Amigos ($12) was smokey, subtly sweet, and strong. Boasting mezcal (a spirit burgeoning in popularity) for a backbone of deep smoke, reposado tequila for complexity of wooden barrels, sherry for a dry sweetness, and chili liqueur for a sensation of heat discernible by feel, not taste, this cocktail will capture you.

Final note for 503W: polish the service, and keep on imagineering.

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