The Brunch Series: Brunching Beyond Stereotypes

TILL KITCHEN 
9633 Prominent Point
www.TillKitchen.com
(719) 282-8004
Hours: Weekdays, 11am-9pm; Weekends, 10am-10pm
Brunch Prices: $13-$22
What you need to know: Brunching at its best

Not long ago, one never “brunched.” “Brunching” was not a verb. At most it was a noun: an odd word describing the amalgamation of “breakfast” and “lunch.” Often, today’s brunch menus will ofter both the sweet and the savory. It’s an attempt at a dining-out utopia with an aim to please all comers.

Brunch: the term can evoke such visceral reactions. From palpable joy at the thought of bottomless mimosas and stuff french toast, to vehement sneering at hour-and-a-half waits and overpriced omelets.

Mercifully, TILL Kitchen is beholden to none of the aforementioned. There were no bottomless mimosas (they are, anyway, almost always bad); there was no stuffed french toast (the avocado toast is more in line with current trends); there was no 90 minute wait (even on a weekend); and there were no overpriced omelets (nothing so pedestrian was even offered). Instead, the compelling eatery mesmerizes its guests with artistic breakfast-cocktails, unctuously executed offerings, and upscale service with an eye for details, all while maintaining a comfortably casual atmosphere. Brunching here is a true treat for all the senses.

At TILL Kitchen, with its immense and open floor plan, open kitchen and adjacent mercantile, guests are presented with a modern-farmhouse ambiance much like farm-to-table joints of the East Coast, with a well thought-out decor that combines wood and steel, flowers and lights. Add to this the waitstaff’s genteel hospitality, and you may just decide that it’s the perfect place to linger over a long brunch. Then you will summon the waitstaff and kindly request a Bacon Bloody Mary that has been crowned with a queenly array of garnishes. And for eleven dollars you will be treated to what is perhaps the best iteration of the classic breakfast-cocktail since Queen Mary herself so gruesomely ruled.

TILL’s brunch selection leans heavily toward the savory, smoke being generously employed as a cooking medium.

Going south of the boarder, diners can find themselves beachside in Cabo for a mere fifteen dollars. Order the Smoked Chicken Chilaquiles for a smokey depth of spice, luxurious avocado, and a fresh spattering of queso fresco and cilantro.

Even better is the Beef Short Rib Hash ($13). Smokey and fall-apart tender, the care and attention given to the short ribs is evident. This true-to-form hash was a beautiful amalgamation of yellow, green and red peppers, onions and hand-smashed, crispy potatoes, all glistening in a classic bordelaise sauce.

Finish your brunching with a housemade mini-tower of brioche donuts ($9). Topped with a decadent dollop of house-whipped cream, and draped in a caramelized pool of cinnamon infused maple syrup, the caky and utterly soft brioche creations are gastronomic bliss. Thank the powers that be—this is brunching at its absolute best.

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